Turin, Piazza San Carlo. Before us, “vitello tonnato” (veal with tuna sauce): pink, smooth, and noble meat, betrayed by a seafaring sauce that smells of deception. It’s the legacy of Ligurian merchants, of mules carrying loads up the Salt Roads, hiding salt from the Savoys beneath layers of anchovies and tuna to outwit the court’s tax collectors. An ancient, rebellious cunning, awakened by the caper leaf that bursts like a spark: wild crunchiness and that savoriness that sends a shiver with every bite.